Devel into the a cross-continent collaboration of sustainable produced luxury handbags that focuses on empowering women.
What was the inspiration behind the Khokho collection?
Rich in colour and textures, the landscape of Swaziland is an integral source of inspiration. During the winter, there is a stark contrast between the charred branches and vibrant flora. The collection palette encompasses these through the colour stories Winter Blaze,Acacia, and Charred Earth. The silhouettes – a clutch, shoulder bag, cross body, and satchel, are interpretations of classic styles re-imagined through the unique weaving patterns.
What is the significance of the name Khokho?
Khokho means Great Grandmother in Siswati. It is a reference to the women who inspire and teach us.Culture and techniques are passed down over generations,particularly among the women in Swaziland. In creating this new collection and product, we wanted to respect these traditions and wisdom of generations before us. For us it important to evolve a craft while keeping its essence in our hearts and minds as we design.
Can you tell us about the collaborative efforts of the brand?
Khokho is the result of a cross-continent collaboration, a weaving together the strengths and skills. New York-based Sapna Shah has designed luxury handbags for over 10 years and discovered her interest in artisan work after returning to her roots in India and uncovering her grandmother’s antique collection of hand-woven saris.
She met Swaziland-based Zinhle Vilakati and Philippa Thorne through Nest, a non-profit organisation supporting artisan businesses. Zinhle Vilakati was taught to weave by her mother and has made it her life’s work to train women in home industries in order for them to earn income and uplift the community around her, as well as breathe new life into traditional skills. Philippa and her three siblings were brought up by their mother after their father passed away; she moved to Swaziland after completing her fashion studies at Central St.Martins.
These three women, all inspired by the inspirational women in their own families, shared a vision to elevate and build appreciation for the craft work of women. Zinhle set about training a group of women in different weaving techniques, while Philippa and Sapna set up a leather atelier in Swaziland for the construction of the bags, eventually bringing in Italian craftsman, Carlo Bisceglia to train graduates from a local upholstery college.Today, the woven panels are made by the Buhleba Khokho Weaving Association and are transformed into handbags at the Khokho Atelier in Swaziland.
It is great that you are showcasing Swazi weaving techniques – how are these unique?
One of the techniques we use originates from a traditional winnow or cutting board called a sitsebe. Only a few women still know this technique of weaving in our region, as the product no longer has a practical application around the home. After refining and re-introducing this technique, we have incorporated it into our satchel and zip pouch styles.We spent two years developing and training, both in the weaving and in leather. We have adapted a traditional basket technique into panels that can then be incorporated into handbags, refining the size and pattern to best fit the silhouette and the hand-crafting process.
You are using products from three countries – can you tell us more about this?
In terms of our materials, we combine natural fibres from Swaziland with South African veg-tanned leather and Italian hardware. The lutindzi grass used is an indigenous grass that is sustainably harvested from rocky outcrops in the Swazi mountains. The woven panels are bought from the Buhle Bakhokho Weaving Association, a co-operative of 12 women weavers. We source materials locally wherever possible and maintain our mission of each piece being 100% handcrafted in Swaziland. Whether in sourcing or manufacturing, quality always plays a key part.
What is the social impact of the company?
Preservation and elevation of traditional hand skills, which builds appreciation and increases the value of craft work. A renewed pride among artisans who previously believed their skills no longer had value in today’s world. As well as the impact the training has had on the team of leather craft graduates, who say they are proud to learn handbag making at this level. The Weaving Association receives a percentage of each sale and they are currently using these funds to procure some land, which they plan to farm.
What are your goals for this brand?
To continue to challenge what is possible within this space. To keep improving and strengthening our collaborations and, in an ever–changing environment. Our handcraft and techniques are finally being seen as the luxurious commodities that they are, appreciated and valued, as with any other handcraft in the world.
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