Where to Tour, Eat, and Sleep in Livingstone, Zambia

Chicamod Team September 17, 2016 Travel & Food activities, Airport, eat, Livingstone, Lusaka, sleep, tour, Travel, Zambia 0

Whether you are passing through of staying for a while, this comprehensive guide should make sure that you have a safe, fun, cultural and unforgettable trip of a lifetime.

Livingstone is named after David Livingstone, thought to be the first European to set eyes on the Victoria Falls which lie just a few kilometres away from the town. In describing their beauty in a letter back home he wrote:

“No one can imagine the beauty of the view from anything witnessed in England. It had never been seen before by European eyes; but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.”

GENERAL INFO

Capital: Lusaka (around 7 – 8 hours drive from Livingstone).

Language: English, Nyanja – there are 72 languages/dialects used in Zambia so English is the most common language used to communicate.

Visas: Visas are required to enter Zambia. Single and double entry visas can be obtained at Livingstone airport, border crossings or the local Zambian embassy elsewhere. Multi-entry visas must be obtained and paid for from an embassy in advance. If you are travelling via train from Tanzania to Kapiri Mposhi in the north before you make the trip down to Livingstone, I would advise that you obtain your visa before you board the train.

A transit/single entry visa is $50, double/multi entry is $80. If you are just visiting for the day to visit Victoria Falls from Zimbabwe, you can obtain a visa for $20 (but you must leave via the same border). Visa fees must be paid in US dollars, so make sure you have this ready when you arrive. Double entry visas at the airport are subject to availability and I have known them to run out from time to time (which means having to fork out another $50 when you come back from your trip to Botswana etc).

Departure Tax: If flying out of Livingstone airport, departure tax is around 60 ZMW ($10) for international flights and 30 ZMW ($5) for domestic flights. Most airline tickets incorporate this into their price.

Currency: Zambian Kwacha.

After the removal of a few zeros in 2013 the ZMK became ZMW. The current exchange rate is 6 ZMW to $1 approx.

Currency exchange is available at the airport, on the main high street (Mosi-oa-Tunya Road), as well as at Shoprite and some hotels. As with most African countries, I advise that any dollars you take need to be new looking banknotes dated after 2002 (dirty/torn notes might not be accepted). You will receive a better exchange rate for higher dominations.

In 2012 a law was passed that meant that tourists could not pay for activities in dollars anymore and must pay by Kwacha or on a credit/debit card (although many places still accept dollars).

If you are coming from the US, bring dollars only. If you are coming from Europe or elsewhere, bring a mix of dollars (for visas) and your own currency to save being stung for the exchange rate twice.

ATMS/Credit Cards: Credit cards are accepted at many of the larger hotels and tourist activities. Visa is widely accepted, whilst other credit cards are hit and miss. Let your bank know that you will be travelling to Zambia to ensure they do not block your cards. There are ATMs at the airport and at banks on the high street.

Budget: Africa can be an expensive place but you can make savings by camping/staying in dorms, eating locally/cooking for yourself and using local transport. Overland tours are a great budget option and they take away a lot of the hassle.

Below I have set out approximate prices for accommodation and activities to help you plan your trip. I’ve done this in dollars, rather than kwacha to help you budget. Just be aware that prices can go up (or down), due to fluctuating exchange rates so factor in a few extra spends.

Sunset: The sun sets early in Zambia, between around 6pm – 6.30pm every night.

WHEN TO GO

Dry Season: April to October (it’s cool and dry between April and August, and hot and dry in September and October).

Rainy Season: November to March.

I would recommend that you visit Zambia in the dry season. In the rainy season, many camps close and some of the dirt roads (of which there are many) become impassable. The dry season also makes it easier to spot wild animals. You will often see them along the road on the way to and from the falls, or on the road to Botswana. White water rafting is best at low water, and this is the only time of year you can visit the Devil’s Pool.

In May, just at the beginning of the cool dry season the Falls look like this:

And by September, they look like this:

WHAT TO DO

There are so many activities to do in Livingstone! Here are some of my favourites. Most activities can be booked via your accomodation once you are there.

Victoria Falls: The main reason most tourists visit is to see the spectacular Victoria Falls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Do not skip this (entry $20)! You can do guided tours for an additional charge, but I think it’s just as easy to do it alone!
Lunar Rainbow: During the full moon in the high water season, the Falls open at night on the full moon and the day either side and you can see the lunar rainbow (entry $20).
Local Cowboy Cycle Tours: One of the best ways to see Livingstone is taking a Local Cowboy Cycle Tour. The cycle tours fund community projects so your money is going to a worthy cause! You will get to visit a couple of villages within Livingstone, a local market and the school the cycle tours fund. Tour last approx 4 hours. I wrote a post about it here! I’d recommend that you do this rather than book a specific village tour ($20).
The Royal Livingstone – One of my favourite treats is afternoon tea at The Royal Livngstone. It’s a (sophisticated), all you can eat cake fest with views of the Zambezi. Once you’ve finished your cakes, make your way down to the cocktail deck and watch the sun go down. You can often spot elephants, hippo, zebra, giraffe and lots of ververt monkeys on a trip to the Royal Livingstone (you won’t need dinner afterwards). Head down for about 3.30pm – watch out for monkeys stealing your cakes. Enjoy! (approx $25).

WHERE TO SLEEP

Accommodation in Livingstone ranges from really cheap, to out of this world expensive. If you are looking for a really romantic stay in Livingstone, one of the luxury lodges on the river could be just what you’re looking for. If you want to be in the thick of the local life, stay at one of the more budget or mid-range options in town. If you want the best of both worlds (without the huge price tag), do as I do and visit the top end hotels for drinks/dinner and pretend you’re posh for a few hours! Most hotels and hostels have pools!

* All prices are approximate and vary slightly depending on who you book with.

Budget

All of the below hostels/camps are located in the town centre.

Fawlty Towers: In a very central location, Fawlty Towers is a very popular place to stay! ($15 per night for a dorm bed, $45 – $75 for private rooms).
Jollyboys Backpackers: Pretty lively with cold beers and nice food. They have private rooms, dorms and space to camp ($10/$12 for a dorm, $40 – $60 for private rooms), they have internet access but no wifi.
Livingstone Backpackers: Self-catering and braai/bbq facilities (dorms from $10 per person, to $40 per person for a deluxe double). Camping is also available.
Grubby’s Grotto: My home for most of the time I’ve stayed in Zambia, I love the tranquil Grotto. It mainly caters for overlanders so you will need to bring your own tent with you. Grubby is a character – tell him I say hi! ($7 per person for camping).

Mid-Range:

All of the below properties are located in the town centre unless otherwise indicated.

Tabonina Guesthouse: Small guest house with a great reputation for friendly staff and cleanliness ($38 – $70 per room for private rooms, $10 per person for camping).
Zig Zag: Nice but basic guest house and a good place for brunch. ($50 – $100 per room).
Olga’s Guest House: The guest house is quite new but the restaurant has been making the folk of Livingstone happy for a long time! ($60 – $100 per room 10% discount if you book through your volunteer agency or a church).
Ngolide Lodge: In the town centre, this lodge has a great reputation ($70 for a single to $130 for a family room).
Chanters Lodge: A highly recommended lodge near to the town centre (singles from $57, doubles from $65, triple/quad from $85).
Green Tree Lodge: In town but set quite far back off the main road ($55 for single, $80 for a double, extrabed can be added for $25).
Maramba River Lodge: This lodge is around 10 minutes drive from Livingstone towards the falls, is in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park and overlooks the Maramba River, so you’ll most likely see animals from here, gets great reviews (dome tents; singles from $60, twin from $80, luxury tent/chalet; singles from $130, twin from $200, triple from $270, quad $340 – chalets only, safari; tents singles from $105, twin from $135).
Zambezi Waterfront: Located near to Maramba River Lodge, outside of the town centre on the Zambezi River, this is a good option if you’re looking for riverside romance but without the huge price tag (static tents $32 per person for a double and $44 for a double, rooms from $105 for a single and $190 for a double – prices vary depeding on season).
Kubu Cabins: Around 20 mins drive from Livingstone town on the river (2 person cabin $101, 4 person cabin $140, 6 person cabin $202 or $380, camping $20 per person).
Chrismar Hotel: An affordable lodge with a nice pool on the edge of Victoria Falls Game Park, just a few minutes drive from Victoria Falls (doubles from around $200).

Luxury:

The hotels and lodges below are some of the most luxurious in the world. Many include a lot of activities within their room rates.

The Royal Livingstone: A ten minute drive from town, this is probably the most famous hotel around, popular with movie stars and presidents! If you can’t afford to stay, you can always visit for a spot of afternoon tea or a cocktail (rooms from $515 per night).

Zambezi Sun: Next door to The Royal Livingstone, giraffe and zebra can often be found wandering the grounds (rooms from $245 per night).
Tongabezi Lodge: This lodge on the Zambezi is top of the range, known for it’s beauty and tranquility. It’s around a twenty minute drive out of town (rooms from $450 per night).
Chundukwa River Lodge: Thirty minutes drive outside of Livingstone on the banks of the Zambezi, this is a wonderfully romantic destination (chalets from $265 per person, per night sharing, cottages from $836 – sleeps 6).
The River Club: Another gorgeous place to stay on the Zambezi (from $574 per person, per night).
Munga Eco Lodge: One of the newer lodges, in between town and the Falls but with great reviews (family room, sleeps up to 8 $1750 per night, chalets from $650 per person).
The Islands of Siankaba: This beautiful lodge an hour outside of Livingstone is often voted the top place to stay in the area – the ultimate getaway (rooms from $548 per night for a single and $944 per night for a double).

WHERE TO EAT

There are restaurants to suit every budget in Livingstone. Most of the campsites and hostels have cooking facilities, so if you buy your food from the local markets/supermarkets you can easily eat for around $6 per day. All of the hotels have restaurants, but I usually cook for myself, with a few trips out to the cheap restaurants below.

Nightlife is pretty relaxed, but if you are looking to party, there are a number of bars/clubs in town and the hostel bars are often fun! Bottled water, beers and sodas from supermarkets are really cheap. Water/sodas from campsites are around $1, beer is around $2.50. Other alcohol varies.

Olga’s Italian Corner: As well as being a wonderful pizzeria, Olga’s is actually a social enterprise. All of the profits from the restaurant and the guest house are used to fund their Youth Community Training Center and CeLIM (an Italian NGO). The school provides free training in catering, carpentry, tailoring, plumbing, computer and bricklaying to orphans and vulnerable youths. Many of the graduates end up being employed by Olga’s. I’ve had a lot of pizza in my time, and Olga’s might just be my favourite.
Wonderbake: I love the pasties, milkshakes and cakes!
Heritage Site (on John Hunt Way) – I had one of the best meals ever in this little local restaurant in Livingstone. We were served a banquet of nshima, fish, vegetables and meat! One not to be missed! I can’t find this place online, so you’ll just have to trust me on this one and find it when you’re there.