Stay at Jack’s Camp

In the bleached-out Makgadikgadi, where the silence is even stronger than the sun, there’s only one man to know: Ralph Bousfield. Out of nothing, Ralph has carved one of the most exquisite light-touch camps in Africa, named after his late father who used this locale on trapping expeditions. The look is derived from the classic East African camps of the 1940s: Persian rugs, campaign-style furniture, and green baize billiard tables. Guided tours by the Kalahari Bushmen take the guests to the heart of this ancient place. With quad bikes, you venture into the desert’s nothingness – flat lands where you watch the sun set as the full moon rises to deliver one of the most magical wilderness experiences left on Earth.

Meet Map

Go on a safari with Map Ives, one of the most amazing naturalists I have ever met. He has spent three decades living and working in the Okavango, and has a vast store of knowledge, insight, stories, mischief and humour.

Don’t skimp on time

Try and spend 8-12 days in Botswana and explore three completely different and diverse ecosystems in that time. The country offers you a once-in-a-lifetime experience so tread slowly.

Watch out for maned female lions

They are rare, very unusual and unexplained. Very little is understood so far, other than it is likely to be caused by a genetic mutation. They can be found on Chief’s Island in the Mombo Concession of the famous Moremi Game Reserve, but are hard to spot. Look for a small male but missing the essential component! I know of just five in the entire Okavango.

See totems

Among people from Botswana, totems are a symbol of kinship and identify different tribes and clans. They are often taboos associated with particular animals and are sometimes derived by tribal choice to mark a special event. Such is the case with the Ngwato, the tribe of His Excellency The President of the Republic of Botswana, Lieutenant General Dr Seretse Khama Ian Khama, whose totem is the phuti (or duiker). It was chosen in the mid-19th Century when the then Chief, Khama III, sheltering in a bush from marauding invaders might have been killed had a duiker not run from the bush, convincing the enemy that there was no one there and saving his life. In fine tradition, the phuti is beautifully and appropriately depicted on his grave.

Combine desert and delta

The Okavango Delta is the 1000th World Heritage Site, so certainly no secret. But the trick is to combine it with contrasting landscape such as the Kalahari or Makgadikgadi.

Safari with kids

Ideally suited for families, this small rustic camp with just three en suite tents offers an affordable experience in a prime game-viewing area. Activities range from identifying spoor to making traditional bows and arrows, and are tailored around the whole family. After a busy morning, your specialist guide will happily entertain the kids while Mum and Dad can enjoy a welcome siesta.

Travel in all seasons

You can visit Botswana at any time of the year. Every season has its appeal. After the rains, the calving begins. In the height of the dry season, herds of elephant migrate across the dusty landscape. Something breath-taking occurs every day of the year.

Understand elephant behaviour

Botswana is home to a third of all the elephants in Africa, so spend as much time as possible with these majestic creatures and look for these five behaviours that will emerge like soap opera:
• Language: Elephants use a range of calls that all have a very specific meaning. If you spend time listening to them you will be able to differentiate the subtle changes.
• Mothering: Watch the teenage females look after the calves and learn to become future mothers.
• Altruism: If there is a disturbance or a sense of danger, watch: the elephants will all gather around the youngest to offer protection.
• Temporal seepage: This is very stress related.
• Must bulls: These also display temporal seepage and have very thick necks.

Spot the Little Five

Don’t just look for the Big Five (elephant, lion, buffalo, leopard and rhino). Watch for the Little Five, which includes: the elephant shrew, ant lion, red-billed buffalo weaver, leopard tortoise and rhinoceros beetle.

Stop by Bryce’s Store

This tiny stone area, which appears to only be rubble, holds a quaint history. It was built by an enterprising British citizen named Bryce, and consists of three buildings: the store, Bryce’s hut and a small circular hut. It served as a staging post for the Zeederberg Coach, which ran over four days from Pretoria to Bulawayo. In 1888 the Boers (originally European farmers who settled in South Africa) attacked the British, who held the only reliable water source in the area and the store. Old bullets, buckles and food tins can be seen.